Guide

Embroidery stabilizer, needles, and bobbin thread

The design file is only half the job. Stabilizer, needle, bobbin, and hooping decide whether a good file sews well. This page covers the physical side and how Stichii recommends settings from your actual design.

Stabilizer: cutaway, tearaway, water-soluble

Cutaway stabilizer stays with the garment permanently and keeps supporting the stitches through wear and washing — it is the right choice for knits, stretchy fabric, and any dense design. Tearaway is removed after sewing and suits stable wovens with lighter coverage. Water-soluble dissolves away entirely: use it as a topping on pile fabrics like terry and fleece so the stitches sit on the surface, or as the base for freestanding lace.

Stichii recommends stabilizer from the density your design actually computes to: heavy cutaway above about 5 stitches per mm², medium cutaway in the middle range, and light tearaway for outline-weight coverage. That recommendation appears on the production worksheet alongside the stitch count and thread estimates.

  • Cutaway — permanent support. Knits, stretch, dense coverage.
  • Tearaway — removed after sewing. Stable wovens, light coverage.
  • Water-soluble — dissolves. Topping for pile, base for freestanding lace.

Needles and bobbin thread

A 75/11 sharp embroidery needle handles most work; move to a 90/14 for denim, leather, and heavy multi-layer fabric. Ballpoint needles suit knits because they push between the loops instead of piercing them. Change the needle regularly — a dull or burred needle causes thread breaks and skipped stitches far more often than a bad file does.

Bobbin thread is finer than top thread, usually a lightweight white or black polyester. It should never be the same weight as your top thread. Stichii estimates bobbin thread consumption alongside top thread on the worksheet, so you know how much you are actually using before a production run.

Hooping and hoop size

Hoop the fabric and stabilizer together, snug but never stretched — stretching is what makes a design pucker when the hoop comes off. For fabric that cannot be hooped without marking, float it on hooped stabilizer instead.

Stichii checks your design against real hoop sizes — 4"×4", 5"×7", 6"×10", 8"×12", 10"×10", Tajima 360×360 mm, and a 60×180 mm cap hoop — and tells you which one fits, including the safe margin, before you sew.

Frequently asked questions

What stabilizer should I use for embroidery?
Cutaway for knits, stretchy fabric, and dense designs; tearaway for stable wovens with light coverage; water-soluble as a topping on pile fabrics or as a base for freestanding lace.
What size needle for machine embroidery?
A 75/11 sharp embroidery needle covers most work. Use 90/14 for denim, leather, or heavy layered fabric, and a ballpoint for knits.
What is bobbin thread and does it have to match?
Bobbin thread is a finer thread that runs underneath. It does not match the top thread — it is usually lightweight white or black polyester, and using top-weight thread in the bobbin causes tension problems.
Why does my fabric pucker even with stabilizer?
Most often the fabric was stretched in the hoop, or the design density is too high for the material. Hoop snug but unstretched, and reduce density before adding heavier stabilizer.
How do I know if my design fits the hoop?
Stichii compares the design bounding box against real hoop sizes including safe margins and reports the smallest hoop that fits, so you find out before you sew rather than at the machine.

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