What is underlay in embroidery?

Underlay is stitching sewn before the visible top stitches. It anchors the fabric to the stabiliser, flattens pile so stitches do not sink, and gives satin and fill a base to sit on.

Do I always need underlay?

Almost always. Light designs on stable woven fabric can use very little, but fleece, terry, knits, and any satin border benefit substantially.

Which underlay is best for satin stitch?

A center-run for narrow columns, or edge-run plus zigzag for wider ones — the zigzag adds loft and keeps the satin from sinking or spreading.

What underlay should I use on towels?

Terry towel needs heavy underlay — a tatami or lattice base — to hold the pile down, often with a water-soluble topping so stitches do not disappear into the loops.

Embroidery Underlay Explained — Types and When to Use Them

Underlay is the layer of stitching sewn before the visible top stitches. It stabilises the fabric, flattens pile, and gives the top stitches something to sit on. Skipping it is why designs sink into towels and fleece, and why satin borders look ragged.

What underlay does

Underlay does three jobs at once: it anchors the fabric to the stabiliser so the material cannot shift under the needle, it compresses pile fabrics so the top stitches sit on the surface instead of sinking into it, and it builds a base that gives satin and fill their loft and clean edges.

It costs stitches and run time, which is why it gets skipped. On stable woven cotton with a light design you can get away with very little. On fleece, terry towel, or knit, underlay is the difference between a crisp design and a fuzzy one.

The underlay types

Stichii implements center-run, edge-run, zigzag, lattice, contour, and tatami underlay, plus an auto mode that picks based on the object. Each suits a different shape and fabric.

Center-run — a single line down the middle. Light, for narrow satin columns.
Edge-run — follows just inside the outline. Stabilises edges and stops satin from spreading.
Zigzag — a wide open zigzag under satin. Adds loft and holds down pile.
Lattice — a crosshatch grid under large fills. Maximum stability on stretchy fabric.
Contour — follows the shape inward. Good for irregular outlines.
Tatami — a light full fill underneath. The heaviest option, for pile and knits.

Matching underlay to fabric

Pile fabrics — fleece, terry towel — need aggressive underlay to tame the nap; a tatami or lattice base holds the pile down so the design does not sink. Knits and spandex stretch as they sew and need underlay for stability plus real pull compensation. Leather and vinyl are the opposite case: needle holes are permanent, so use sparse stitching and minimal underlay.

Stichii ships 13 fabric presets that set underlay, density, and pull compensation together, and retuning the whole design for a different fabric is a single undoable step.

Frequently asked questions

What is underlay in embroidery?: Underlay is stitching sewn before the visible top stitches. It anchors the fabric to the stabiliser, flattens pile so stitches do not sink, and gives satin and fill a base to sit on.
Do I always need underlay?: Almost always. Light designs on stable woven fabric can use very little, but fleece, terry, knits, and any satin border benefit substantially.
Which underlay is best for satin stitch?: A center-run for narrow columns, or edge-run plus zigzag for wider ones — the zigzag adds loft and keeps the satin from sinking or spreading.
What underlay should I use on towels?: Terry towel needs heavy underlay — a tatami or lattice base — to hold the pile down, often with a water-soluble topping so stitches do not disappear into the loops.

Embroidery underlay — what it does and which type to use

What underlay does

The underlay types

Matching underlay to fabric

Frequently asked questions